Palazzo Ducale

The Palazzo Ducale was the seat of government of the Republic of Genova for centuries — a republic that, at its peak, rivalled Venice and controlled trade routes across the Mediterranean. Today it's one of Italy's most important exhibition spaces, hosting world-class art exhibitions that rotate throughout the year.

Check what's on before you go — the exhibitions are always exceptional. Over the years they've hosted major shows on Modigliani, Escher, and Frida Kahlo, and the palace regularly brings a masterpiece or two by artists like Van Gogh to the city. The building itself is worth visiting even without an exhibition: the courtyard, the monumental staircase, the Torre Grimaldina (the old prison tower) with views over the city.

The bookshop on the ground floor is one of the best in Genova. Beautifully curated, with sections on architecture, photography, Ligurian history, and Italian design. I always find something I didn't know I needed.

There's also a lovely café in the courtyard — Caffè Ducale — where you can sit under the porticoes and watch the world go by. In summer, they host concerts and events in the courtyard. It's a magical setting.