The Caruggi

The caruggi are the soul of Genova. They're the narrow medieval alleyways of the centro storico — the largest medieval old town in Europe. Some are so narrow you can touch both walls with your arms outstretched. They twist and turn and climb and descend, and they've been here for nearly a thousand years.

You don't visit the caruggi — you get lost in them. That's the whole point. Walk without a map. Turn into whichever alley looks most intriguing. You'll find hidden churches with frescoed ceilings, tiny shops selling pesto and olive oil, cats sleeping on windowsills, laundry strung between buildings five stories up.

A few highlights to stumble upon: Via del Campo (made famous by the songwriter Fabrizio De André, Genova's Bob Dylan), Piazza San Matteo (a perfect medieval square), and the church of San Pietro in Banchi (built on top of a row of shops to fund its construction — very Genovese).

The caruggi are safe during the day and generally fine at night, though I'd avoid the alleys near Via Prè after dark — that area can feel a bit rough. Stick to the well-lit streets and you'll be perfectly fine.

One last thing: look up. The architecture in the caruggi is stunning — ornate doorways, faded frescoes on building facades, stone reliefs from the 14th century, terracotta rooftops against the sky.